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Statutory footwear material notation, shown in Portuguese and English.
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Statutory notation

Parte superior: couro · Forro e palmilha: couro · Sola: outros materiais

Upper: leather · Lining and insock: leather · Outsole: other materials

C-07 — Line C — cupsole

Nubuck Premium

Stone nubuck with an unusually even nap, leather-lined. The nap is the whole product here, so we buy the hides for surface rather than for thickness.

$288USD, one-off purchase

Material label — Directive 94/11/EC

Statutory material label for the Nubuck Premium
ComponenteMaterial
parte superioruppercouroleatherCattle nubuck, 1.6 mm, selected for even nap
forro e palmilhalining and insockcouroleatherVegetable-tanned calf lining and leather-covered insock
solaoutsoleoutros materiaisother materialsMoulded rubber cupsole with a compression-moulded EVA wedge

Declared class is the material making up at least 80% of that component. What each class covers

Cannot be re-soled

The upper is cemented inside a moulded rubber cup. The join is permanent: removing the sole destroys the bottom of the upper. When the tread is worn through, the pair has reached the end of its life. What that means for the guarantee

Size, EU

Small figure is the measured interior length in centimetres. How to measure your foot

Go to cart

Adding does not open the cart. The count in the header goes up by one.

Specification

Everything we measured.

Figures are taken from a size EU 42 unless a range is given, and they are the same figures we hold in production.

Build

01
Hides selected for even nap and minimal growth marks, which is why the yield is low and the price is high.
02
Full leather lining and leather-covered insock.
03
Pale nubuck is the least forgiving surface we sell. Spray it before the first wear.

Dimensions

Sole thickness, forefoot
22 mm
Sole thickness, heel
28 mm
Last
Standard
Forefoot width, EU 42
98 mm
Construction
cupsole
Re-soleable
No — the join is permanent
Country of manufacture
Country of manufacture is printed on the box and on the sewn-in label inside each pair.

Chemical compliance

Chromium VI in leather
≤ 3 mg/kg
Azo dyes
Within REACH Annex XVII limits
Nickel release, metal eyelets
Within REACH Annex XVII limits

Measured size table

Measured interior foot length and forefoot width by EU size for the Nubuck Premium
EUFoot lengthForefoot width
3622.7 cm88.4 mm
3723.4 cm90.0 mm
3824.0 cm91.6 mm
3924.7 cm93.2 mm
4025.3 cm94.8 mm
4126.0 cm96.4 mm
4226.7 cm98.0 mm
4327.3 cm99.6 mm
4428.0 cm101.2 mm
4528.7 cm102.8 mm
4629.3 cm104.4 mm

Standard last. If this measures narrow for you, the wide-fit models add about 7 mm across the ball.

How this pair is cleaned, and what will not come out.

Suede and nubuck

  1. 01Let mud dry completely. Wet mud pushes into the nap; dry mud brushes off.
  2. 02Brush the whole panel with a brass or crepe brush, always in the same direction.
  3. 03Work dry marks with a crepe rubber eraser, then brush the crumbs away.
  4. 04For a water mark, dampen the entire panel evenly rather than spot-treating, then dry it flat and brush the nap back up.
  5. 05Re-apply a protector spray after cleaning, and always before the first wear.

Comes out

  • Dry mud and dust
  • Scuffs where the nap has been flattened rather than removed
  • Light water marks, if the whole panel is treated evenly
  • Salt marks

Stays

  • Oil and grease — on nap they spread further and faster than on smooth leather
  • Dye transfer
  • Areas where the nap has been abraded away to the base, which cannot be regrown
  • Marks set by heat drying
  • Never put these in a washing machine.
  • Never use a smooth-leather cream or wax on nap: it mats the fibres flat and does not come back.
  • Never spot-clean with water on one small area only. Treat the whole panel or you trade a stain for a ring.
  • Never use a brass brush on smooth leather.

Rubber midsole and outsole

  1. 01Work a stiff short-bristle brush with foam cleaner along the midsole, not across it.
  2. 02Run the brush into the join between sole and upper, where the grey collects first.
  3. 03Wipe the foam off before it dries, or it leaves a tidemark of its own.
  4. 04For the tread, a brush and plain water is enough. Do not soak the shoe to clean the bottom of it.

Comes out

  • Grey street film, which is most of what makes a white midsole look old
  • Scuffs from kerbs, mostly
  • Marks at the join between sole and upper

Stays

  • Yellowing of the rubber itself, which is oxidation through the material rather than dirt on it
  • Cuts and gouges in the rubber
  • Tar
  • Never use acetone or a solvent on rubber: it softens the compound and it attacks the cement at the join.
  • Never soak a shoe to clean its sole.
  • Never use a whitening product that relies on bleach. It sets the yellow rather than lifting it.
STITCHED JOINTnot used here — can be openedUNPICK THE THREAD, FIT A NEW SOLEBONDED JOINTevery pair here — cannot be openedREMOVING THE SOLE DESTROYS THE UPPERTHESE SHOES CANNOT BE RE-SOLED

Why the sole is permanent.

A stitched joint can be unpicked and re-made. A bonded one cannot. Both of the constructions we use are bonded, and that is a property of this kind of shoe rather than a shortcut in ours.

What this material actually needs

Matched to the label above rather than to whatever we would like to shift.

  • Crepe eraser block, brass-bristle brush and protector spray can in a row

    Not footwear — composition listed

    F-03

    Eraser, brass brush and protector spray. The nap needs abrasion and lifting, not washing, which is why none of this is wet.

  • A pair of natural leather insoles lying flat side by side

    Not footwear — composition listed

    F-04 · Natural

    A replacement pair of leather-topped insocks. They are a consumable: the insock in a shoe you wear daily is finished long before the shoe is.