Side profileF-07 — Line F
Three Pair Set
Three pairs in three different materials: heavy white full-grain, vegetable-tanned tan, taupe nubuck. Three different labels, deliberately.
$398USD, one-off purchase
$46 below the $444 the three items cost separately.
Adding does not open the cart. The count in the header goes up by one.
- Free standard shipping over $129. Below that it is $12. Delivery windows
- 14 days to withdraw without giving a reason. Try them indoors on carpet. Livre resolução
- 3-year legal guarantee of conformity under Portuguese law. Garantia
- Livro de Reclamações Eletrónico
Specification
Everything we measured.
Figures are taken from a size EU 42 unless a range is given, and they are the same figures we hold in production.
Build
- 01
- Choose a size for each pair at checkout. They can differ.
- 02
- Bought together this is 46 dollars below the three separate prices.
- 03
- The point of the set is the comparison: same last, three surfaces, three ways of ageing.
Chemical compliance
- Chromium VI in leather
- ≤ 3 mg/kg
- Azo dyes
- Within REACH Annex XVII limits
- Nickel release, metal eyelets
- Within REACH Annex XVII limits
How this pair is cleaned, and what will not come out.
Smooth and coated leather
- 01Take the laces out. They hold most of the dirt and they wash separately.
- 02Brush loose dust off dry with a soft brush before any water touches the shoe.
- 03Work a pH-neutral foam over the panel with a damp cloth, in circles, one panel at a time.
- 04Wipe the foam off with a second cloth, clean and barely damp. Do not let it dry on the leather.
- 05Stuff the shoe with paper and dry it away from radiators and sun, for at least twelve hours.
- 06On uncoated leather, finish with a colourless cream once a month if the surface looks dry.
Comes out
- Dust and dry street dirt
- Dry scuff marks that sit on the surface
- Water-based food marks caught the same day
- Salt tide marks from winter pavements
- Grey transfer from rubbing against a bag or a doorframe
Stays
- Oil and grease, once absorbed — the surface is porous and the oil goes in, not on
- Dye lifted from dark denim or a dark car seat into pale leather
- Ink
- Deep cuts and abrasions through the finish, which can be filled but not undone
- Heat damage from drying on a radiator, which shrinks and hardens the fibre permanently
- Never put these in a washing machine. The drum separates the sole from the upper.
- Never use bleach or a cleaner containing optical brightener. Both accelerate yellowing.
- Never dry them with heat.
- On coated leather, never use a solvent-based cleaner: it lifts the coating along with the mark.
Rubber midsole and outsole
- 01Work a stiff short-bristle brush with foam cleaner along the midsole, not across it.
- 02Run the brush into the join between sole and upper, where the grey collects first.
- 03Wipe the foam off before it dries, or it leaves a tidemark of its own.
- 04For the tread, a brush and plain water is enough. Do not soak the shoe to clean the bottom of it.
Comes out
- Grey street film, which is most of what makes a white midsole look old
- Scuffs from kerbs, mostly
- Marks at the join between sole and upper
Stays
- Yellowing of the rubber itself, which is oxidation through the material rather than dirt on it
- Cuts and gouges in the rubber
- Tar
- Never use acetone or a solvent on rubber: it softens the compound and it attacks the cement at the join.
- Never soak a shoe to clean its sole.
- Never use a whitening product that relies on bleach. It sets the yellow rather than lifting it.
Suede and nubuck
- 01Let mud dry completely. Wet mud pushes into the nap; dry mud brushes off.
- 02Brush the whole panel with a brass or crepe brush, always in the same direction.
- 03Work dry marks with a crepe rubber eraser, then brush the crumbs away.
- 04For a water mark, dampen the entire panel evenly rather than spot-treating, then dry it flat and brush the nap back up.
- 05Re-apply a protector spray after cleaning, and always before the first wear.
Comes out
- Dry mud and dust
- Scuffs where the nap has been flattened rather than removed
- Light water marks, if the whole panel is treated evenly
- Salt marks
Stays
- Oil and grease — on nap they spread further and faster than on smooth leather
- Dye transfer
- Areas where the nap has been abraded away to the base, which cannot be regrown
- Marks set by heat drying
- Never put these in a washing machine.
- Never use a smooth-leather cream or wax on nap: it mats the fibres flat and does not come back.
- Never spot-clean with water on one small area only. Treat the whole panel or you trade a stain for a ring.
- Never use a brass brush on smooth leather.
What is in this set
Each item keeps its own label and its own care method. Sizes for the pairs are chosen above, separately.
- couroupper: leather.
- courolining and insock: leather.
- outrosoutsole: other materials.
White Full Grain
$168
A-05 · cupsole · White
Heavier hide, leather lining. It holds its shape far longer than the entry models and it takes about two weeks to stop feeling stiff.
- couroupper: leather.
- courolining and insock: leather.
- outrosoutsole: other materials.
Tan Cupsole
$128
B-03 · cupsole · Tan
Vegetable-tanned tan calf, leather-lined. It darkens where it is handled and where the sun hits it, and that is the reason to buy it.
- couroupper: leather.
- têxtillining and insock: textile.
- outrosoutsole: other materials.
Nubuck Cupsole
$148
C-03 · cupsole · Taupe
Nubuck is the grain side sanded, not the flesh side raised. Shorter nap, denser surface, and it survives being brushed far more often than suede.